Garden work for November.
Tulip bulbs are best planted in November for spring flowering.
Rake up leaves from the lawn and stack them in a chicken wire cage to make a good soil conditioner. It is important to keep them moist and aired to assist breakdown.
Prune most deciduous trees from November to February.
Don’t walk on frosty or wet lawns if you can avoid it.
Plant bare rooted deciduous trees and shrubs. Dig a generous hole and add root growth accelerator.
Protect vulnerable plants like agapanthus bay and camillias with bubble wrap, especially if the weather turns really cold.
Bring in begonias, cannas, dahlias and other tender plants once there has been a frost and the foliage has been cut down. Store tubers in a frost free environment.
Take care not to over water overwintering plants, especially cacti.
Grapevines should be pruned in November after leaf fall, but it should be completed before the end of December to avoid ‘bleeding’ of the sap.
When there is a spell of freezing weather protect carrots and other root crops that are still in the ground with a covering of straw and a polythene ‘coat’ to shed rain.
Take hardwood cuttings of red- and white currants. The cutting should be about 30cm (a foot) long. Remove all but the top 3 buds. Heel them into the ground.
Prune apple and pear trees between now and early March.
New raspberry canes should be planted now in well-manured ground. Give them 45-60cm spacing.
There is still time to sow broad beans, but protect emerging young plants with cloches or fleece in extended periods of frost or snow.
Check stored apples for any rotting or damage by rodents (they can get anywhere they like!).